Morning Routine Printable

morning routine flowchart printableSo it’s time for my daughter to run out the door and catch the bus for school, and I say, “Time to go!  Wait.  You don’t have socks on?”  “You didn’t tell me to put socks on.”  Can someone tell me why a 7-year-old, who puts on socks every single day, needs to be told to put socks on?  Or reminded to wipe after going to the bathroom for that matter?  In an effort to end our morning madness and help my daughter be more self-sufficient, I made this little (11″x17″) flowchart with fox illustrations.  To sweeten the pot, I added spots to mark successful days, and when they’re all full, I’ll take her out for a Mommy-Daughter date.

fox in 3 piecesVector illustrations are still pretty new to me, but this was pretty easy.  I drew the fox head, body, and tail separately so I could arrange the pieces for different poses without redrawing the fox every time, and I also feel this added continuity to the illustrations.  If you like it the way it is, go ahead and click on the picture and print it, but if you want to make alterations (color, wording), here is the Adobe Illustrator file (the font is called Bellota, free, available here).  Or you could use these three PNGs (images with transparent backgrounds) of the fox and manipulate them to make your own.

Also, part of our morning routine involves singing a song, reading a scripture story, and saying a family prayer (we call it SSP), so this is the version of the flowchart we’re actually using:

morning routine printable with song scripture prayer

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Three Things I Learned Sewing Curtains for my Daughter

3 Tricks for sewing painless curtainsI’m not a seamstress, but having attended Pinterest University, I’ve learned a lot about sewing.  I recently decided to add some color and privacy to my daughter’s room, and being a DIY-er to my very core, I of course could not possibly buy curtains.  That would be lunacy.  So I made them, forgetting how hard it is to get nice gathers, how tedious pinning and hemming is, how I don’t have a serger to finish raw edges.  What did I learn in this endeavor?

Nice even gathers

  1. Zigzag stitch over strong fishing line or dental floss for your gathers.  That long basting stitch my mom taught me?  You know the one that snaps every time you try to pull to make gathers?  Fuhgettaboutit.  When you zigzag over the floss or fishing line, you can pull and adjust the gathers exactly how you like, sew, and the floss or fishing line slips right out when you’re done.
  2. No straight pins!  Use clothespins instead.  Seriously.  Bam, bam, bam!  You’re done.  Using clothespins instead of straight pins was so much faster and easier, and if I drop a clothespin, I don’t have to be afraid that it will somehow become embedded in the carpet and I’ll kick it with my big toe.
  3. Perfect rolled hemRolled hem presser foot?  What’s that?  Totally unnecessary, that’s what.  I’m not a fan of extra, super-specialized tools.  I have too many interests to be getting a special tool for every little thing I want to do, and from the tutorials I’ve seen on YouTube, I’m pretty sure my method is just as easy and maybe even neater.  I have a roll of cash register paper that I got for 50¢ at the thrift store, and I ripped off a strip the length of my hem.  curtain tabs with narrow rolled hemsI sewed it to the right side of the fabric with 1/4″ seam allowance, ironed it flat, turned the paper in to the wrong side of the fabric, and top stitched the hem to keep it down.  Then I just tore the paper away and was left with the neatest, most evenest (double superlative!) hem I have ever sewn in my life.  For the tabs at the top, I hemmed them in one big long strip, then cut them to size for the tab.  Go here for a full tutorial on this technique.
  4. No frayed edges with French seamsAnd a bonus that I did not learn for this project but from sewing a dress for my other daughter:  French seams.  I don’t have a serger and won’t be getting one any time soon (see #3).  But who wants their seams fraying?  Not me.  So when I sew a seam, I first sew wrong sides together with a narrow seam allowance, iron, then turn the fabric right sides together.  This sucks the raw edges into the seam, so no fraying.  It works much better than zigzagging, and is only a little more effort.

So tell me, what have you learned from Pinterest University?

Posted in Fiber Arts, Sewing | Tagged , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Grain Matters

book with buckling in the gutter

I just bought this book for my girls from the school book fair.  Darling story, but the quality of the binding is really annoying me.  It is obvious that the Chinese “bindery” from whence it came was too stingy to align the grain properly. One of the first things you learn as a bookbinder is that paper has a grain direction, and the grain should always run parallel to the spine.  This is because paper expands more across the grain than along with the grain.  If the grain is perpendicular to the spine, as the paper expands and contracts with changes in humidity, it can weaken your stitches and wrinkles appear in the gutter just like in the book pictured above.  Additionally, the pages will be stiffer and not lay flat when open.  If you fold a thick paper perpendicular to the grain, the fold will be messy, not crisp, and the fibers in the paper will break.  Paper tears and folds more easily and neatly parallel to the grain.

sushi mat

A sushi mat is like a blow-up of paper grain.

Think of a sushi mat.  This is pretty much exactly what we’re talking about when we talk about paper grain. In the case of the mat, folding across the “grain” would snap all the little sticks, but it rolls and folds neatly along the grain.  So when you’re binding, you want the sticks parallel to the spine, not sticking out of it.

Most of the time, grain runs parallel to the long edge of your paper, but not always.  When I determine paper grain, I gently fold the paper without creasing it and sort of bounce my fingers on the fold, and then fold it again at 90 degrees to the first fold to see which way has more give.  This is the most non-invasive way to determine grain.  If this method doesn’t work for you, try tearing a strip from two edges at 90 degrees to each other and see which one is neater.  The strip was torn along the length of the grain and your spine should be parallel to this edge.  Another way is to tear out a rectangle and mist it with water.  Paper grIt will immediately curl and the grain is running the from end to end of the this sort of cylinder.  Make sure you do this test with a rectangle, not a square, so you know how your little scrap was oriented in the larger sheet.

The only time I’ve ever seen a high end binder break the paper grain rule was when the book was too large to orient the grain properly.  Even though she used very high quality paper, you could see some very slight buckling in the gutter.  In a case like this, you could do a single sheet binding and avoid that problem, but this extremely large book was for an exhibition and would have to lie flat open for several months, so a single sheet binding was not an option.

If you would like to read more about paper grain, head over to the Center for Book Arts’ blog entry on the subject.

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DIY Young Maleficent Costume, Wings, and Horns

Young Maleficent Costume TutorialI love Halloween because I get to let the costume designer out of the closet and run wild.  It’s great because my older daughter generally has some pretty interesting ideas for costumes.  This year, she wants to be a … (drumroll, please) … cat.  I know.  Big fat let down for me, too.  But my younger daughter is still a little too young to be choosing Halloween costumes, mostly because she doesn’t get what Halloween is, so I’m choosing.  Earlier in the year, we went to see Maleficent, and we all loved it.  The younger one kept running around, hopping on things, and shouting, “I’m Meficent!”  Now she says “Leficent.”  But that’s when I decided I would be the best mom ever and make her a young Maleficent costume.

I drafted a pattern based on one of her dresses, making the sleeves pretty wide like bells.  The skirt is just a wide tapered panel that I gathered.Bodice and sleeve pattern pieces

The part where I innovated was on the texture for the dress.  I cut out double of everything, one set out of an old men’s shirt (preserving the hems and buttons–who wants to do the finish work when you don’t have to?), and another set cut on the bias out of a patterned brown fabric.  I sewed the doubles together with long parallel lines about an inch apart, sewed the dress together, then cut the top patterned layer of fabric in between the lines of stitching.  I cut it on the bias so I could have these raw edges without excessing fraying.  I twisted the dress tightly to wrinkle the fabric.  I love the texture this technique created.Maleficent dress texture

The wing I designed to fold over and is the length of her armspan from fingertip to fingertip, attached at the back of the dress with a safety pin (elegant, I know) and with elastics at her wrists.  Make sure those elastics are pretty loose.Maleficent wing pattern piece

I lucked into a golden brown feather patterned fabric on clearance.  I recommend you do the same.  I gathered the wings where they meet between her shoulder blades just cuz.golden brown feather fabric wings

I’m impressed with myself already, but we’re not even done.  The horns are the pièce de résistance, and also the easiest and quickest.  A headband, foil, and electrical tape are all you need.  And of course, an eager almost-three-year-old. DSC_0030

I formed the horns out of foil. The tricky part is making them symmetrical, and for that, I recommend cutting two pieces of foil the same size every time you add more foil, and working the horns at the same time instead of making one, then trying to copy it.foil Maleficent horns

After I got the right twistiness and everything looked about right, I taped the horns to the headband, then added a little more foil around both the horns and headband to make the horns stable.attach foil Maleficent horns with electrical tape and more foil

Then I spiraled up and down with the electrical tape until the horns were completely covered, and they were done!Electrical tape Maleficent horns

The horns are surprisingly sturdy. I’m just worried about the headband breaking before she even gets to go trick-or-treating on Halloween because I can’t pry it off her.

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Perfect No Wheat High Protein Buckwheat Buttermilk Pancakes

DSC_0019I don’t hate wheat.  I am suspicious of wheat, but I love buckwheat, which is not even a grain.  It’s actually related to rhubarb and sorrel, full of flavinoids, manganese, and magnesium; is linked to low LDL cholesterol and high HDL cholesterol; and has good quality, non-gluten proteins.  Read up about it on the World’s Healthiest Foods.

I have been perfecting this recipe for quite some time, and it’s too good not to share.  They’re everything pancakes should be, yet shockingly nutritious, high in protein and omega-3 fatty acids. This recipe has its origins in an herbivoracious recipe for buckwheat buttermilk pancakes.  If you can’t find roasted chickpea (garbanzo) flour, get the plain kind and roast it yourself.  It’s very easy to roast yourself on the stovetop-just stir it around in a dry pan (I prefer a cast iron skillet) until it browns to a nice caramel color.  Takes only a few minutes.  Don’t use the flour unroasted because it will taste a little sour.

  • 1 1/2 cups buckwheat flour
  • 1 1/2 cups roasted chickpea flour
  • 1/4 cup chia seeds
  • 1/4 cup hemp hearts
  • a handful of ground flaxseed
  • 1/2 cup walnut bits
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1  teaspoon salt
  • 3 cups buttermilk
  • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
  • 4 eggs
  1. Mix everything dry together–I mean everything, even the walnuts.  You want the dry stuff evenly dispersed, but you don’t want to overmix.
  2. Mix everything wet together.
  3. Combine and mix just enough that there’s nothing dry left.
  4. Let sit for about 10 minutes to let the chia soak up the liquid and expand–this is the key to a nice moist but not doughy pancake.
  5. Warm up your griddle and coat it with just a bit of oil once it’s hot.
  6. Drop 1/4 cup fulls of batter on the griddle and flip when the edges start to look a little dry and a few bubbles have burst on the surface of the pancake.

Enjoy!  Serve with butter and jam, or as I like to, with peanut butter and syrup.  I know what you’re thinking, but like pineapples in lasagna, don’t knock it ’til you try it.

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The Hows and Whys of Bookbinding with a Sewing Frame

DIY sewing frameWhen I first learned bookbinding, we did not use sewing frames.  It wasn’t until I started learning more advanced techniques that I first used a sewing frame.  At the time, it seemed unnecessary and a bit of a nuisance.  The struts just got in the way, and I didn’t think it made sewing any easier.  However, now that I’ve made lots and lots of books, my views have changed.  Firstly, pre-punching signatures takes A LOT of time, so I abandoned my punch cradle.  Now I stack the signatures together and use a saw to cut the holes all at once.  This does not work for my albums, however.  Because of the guards, I can’t stack them easily, and clamping them together to saw gets them all out of alignment again.  It’s a headache.  Since I’m only going through two layers of paper for these albums, I don’t really need pre-made holes to make pulling the needle and thread through easier, just to keep everything in alignment.  Have to keep tapes straight and bookblock square

So my thoughts returned to the sewing frame.  This could keep my linen tapes straight.  Now if only those darn struts would get out of the way.

Behold, the marvel of engineering:  the cantilever!Cantilever bookbinding sewing frame

This sewing frame took me a single naptime to make.  So easy.  And you want to know what’s even better?  It took me the same amount of time to sew the book block as it usually does, but without all the time pre-punching the pages.  Such a time saver, and as we discussed in my previous post, time is money.

To make your own, you will need:

  • Two 3/4″ hardwood squares (next to the dowels at the hardware store)
  • One 1/2″ dowel
  • A pack of four 3/4″ galvanized steel L-brackets with accompanying screws
  • Four small rubber washers (plumbing section)
  • Four wood screws
  • A piece of wood for the base of the frame (mine is a scrap left over from building shelves, 15 1/4″ x 11 1/4″, which turned out to be the perfect size)
  • A drill

I’ll give you my measurements for everything if you want to replicate it exactly, but it’s not hard to figure out if you want to make one smaller or bigger.

Cut four pieces of the 3/4″ hardwood square at 11 1/4″, and one piece at 13 3/4″.  Cut the 1/2″ dowel at 15″.  Every time I tell you to screw something, read, “Pre-drill, then screw.” Don’t skip pre-drilling.  You think it’s faster just to screw until you split the wood and have to start over, only you don’t have any more wood so you have to go back to the hardware store, which means you just wasted naptime.  Don’t skip it.  Screw the struts to the cantilevered portion of the frame with the L-brackets, then screw those to the base.  Screw the longer piece between the cantilevers with wood screws.  Construct frame using galvanized steel L-brackets

Screw the dowel under the front of the base using the rubber washers as spacers. And you’re done!  Easy peasy lemon squeezy.  Use rubber washers as spacers between the base and dowel.

I used regular size binder clips to secure the tapes to the dowel and mini binder clips to keep the tapes looped over the strings hanging down.Use binder clips to hold your linen tapes in place.I have plans for adding a fence to jog the signatures against to keep everything square, but for now, I’m just using my boxmaking weight.  Don’t know what that is?  Guess you’ll have to stay tuned to find out ;)

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Pricing Your Handbound Books

pricing your handbound books and other handmade itemsOr any handmade item for that matter. Time and again, I’ve gotten on Etsy and seen people selling handbound books for what seems to me to be barely more than their materials cost. STOP IT! PAY YOURSELF A DECENT WAGE! I don’t care if you would’ve been making no money otherwise, but you are a (at least somewhat) skilled craftsman and you need to charge as much. What is a decent wage? Not minimum wage, that’s for sure. I’m going to be candid, which is something not a lot of online sellers are willing to do, and tell you that I pay myself $50/hour, and I fully intend to give myself a raise at the end of the year. Maybe all you do is pamphlets, coptics, and stab bindings and you want to pay yourself less. Go for it, but I would never pay myself less than $20/hour, and that might not be a fair wage where you live. If you couldn’t subsist on that wage working at it full time, pay yourself more.

When you are calculating price, you don’t just consider your time and materials; you consider the future, too. Reinvesting in your business, better equipment, continuing education, and advertising, if you choose. Here is my formula for calculating price:

(materials x 2) + (time x 2) = WHOLESALE PRICE
wholesale x 2= retail price

Maybe you think you can get away with just charging wholesale, but what happens when you’re approached by a retailer who wants to carry your products? They’re going to expect to buy a large quantity from you for half of what you charge. This is so they can make a profit and not be undersold by you. If you’re selling at wholesale, you either sell to this retailer for no profit at all, or forego the opportunity.

Maybe you’re charging so little because your materials cost very little? STOP THAT TOO! People do not buy handbound books so they can write in them and have the ink bleed, or have the paper deteriorate around their photos, or rip easily, or you know, just be generally wimpy paper. People come looking for a handbound book because they want an item of quality that did not come from a sweatshop. For bookbinders, your cost is going to paper, leather, cloth, thread, and glue. My paper comes from mills in Italy and the United States, my leather comes from Germany, my thread comes from the UK. I can spend $30-$50 on materials for a single album or book. So you can understand my skepticism when I see a leather book going for $35 on Etsy.

When I first started out, I did not charge enough to make it worth it.  I charged what I would be willing/able to pay if I were my own customer.  You are not your customer.  Use good materials, pay yourself a good wage, be honest about your time. You can sell a whole lot of books for very little profit or a few for a good profit. I know which I’d rather. You’re not competing with Amazon, or even other binders. Your books are as unique as you are; if people like your books, they will buy them from you.

I would love to hear about your experiences trying to price your books (etc.) in the comments!

Posted in Arts and Crafts, Bookbinding, Boxmaking, Paper Arts | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 7 Comments

Crochet Kraft Paper Bag Basket

crochet neon and kraft paper basketI have a lot of shipping materials floating around my house because I do a lot of shipping, and I try to reuse whatever I can, whenever I can.  As a bookbinder, I’m very conscious of my carbon footprint–I use linen, cotton, and wool paper and try to go tree free wherever I can, but it’s not always possible, especially when the decision is in someone else’s hands.  I’ve been loving these baskets I’ve been spying on Pinterest (also here, and here), and having taken a workshop from Aimee Lee on shifu (Korean paper spinning), I put 1+1+1 together to make this:DSC_0104I used my ruler to rip long strips of packing paper the width of my ruler and then scrunched them in my fist; I didn’t actually spin them.


I started crocheting using the magic circle method, making a round of six single crochet stitches.  For the second round, insert your hook into the first single crochet of the first round and draw up a loop.  Then lay two strips of scrunched paper between your hook and yarn tail, and yarn over over the strips of paper (yes, I do believe there should be two overs there).  Here’s a video showing what I mean (start watching at about four minutes to skip the preamble).DSC_0067

For this second round, you will chain two and single crochet twice in the top of every single stitch from the first round, leaving you with 12 chain  two spaces.  For each subsequent round, increasing six stitches/chain two spaces will keep it approximately flat.  DSC_0076

About six inches before the end of my strips of paper, I tore one off so I wouldn’t be adding two strips at the same time and my strips would overlap.DSC_0097When you think the bottom is big enough, decrease the number of increases or stop increasing altogether, depending on how steep you want the sides to be.
DSC_0081If you confine your increases to four equidistant spots, the basket will be somewhat squarish.  I did one circular basket with steep sides, and the other one, I made my increases on two opposite sides, resulting in a bit of an oval.
DSC_0105If you would like to purchase these darling book magnets you see in my basket, head over to my Etsy shop!

Posted in Arts and Crafts, Bookbinding, Crochet, Fiber Arts, Paper Arts | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Plaid Shirt Pocket Notebooks

Plaid notebooks on Etsy

Plaid notebooks on Etsy

I first started stealing plaid shirts from my father way back in the 90’s. You remember when girls wore high-waisted Levis and oversized plaid shirts tied in a knot at their waists? Yeah, I rocked that. I didn’t so much see it going out of style…. Lucky for me, hipsters have brought plaid back and I’m cool again! Here is a tribute to my favorite Scottish patterns with a sunny update:

I carved three blocks, one base pattern and two variations to print over it. They’re just simple little pamphlet style notebooks a smidge bigger than pocket Moleskines.  Interested in buying one?  You know you are.  Head on over to my Etsy shop!  And click here for my tutorial on making simple pamphlet style notebooks.

Plaid notebooks on Etsy

Plaid notebooks on Etsy.

Posted in Bookbinding, Paper Arts, Printmaking | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Magnetic Picture Hanger Tutorial

Poster hanging beside the pantry door.

My hipster cow poster hanging beside the pantry door.

Magnets hold the print in the moulding sandwich.

Magnets hold the print in the moulding sandwich.

I love the look of old educational wall hangings with the wooden dowels across the top and bottom, and I’ve been trying to find a cheap way to display my work around the house.  Here’s my tutorial on how I recreated that vintage look.


Use a speed square and blade to mark your cuts.

Use a speed square and blade to mark your cuts.


Cut four pieces of moulding slightly wider than the poster/print you’d like to hang.  Two for the top, and two for the bottom.  The print will be sandwiched between them and secured with the magnets.  My overhang was a 1/4″ on either side.  I used a speed square and Olfa blade to mark my measurements.  A blade is much more accurate than a pencil and it severs the wood fibers to cut down on splintering.

What?  I can't tell.

What? I can’t tell.

Eww, not square!

Eww, not square!

If you find that with all your care your cuts aren’t perfectly square, just match the ends of the same cut together and no one will be able to tell.

Then stain your wood.  I used Jacobean, which is very dark, and there was no need to let it sit.  I just wiped it on, then wiped it off again.

Mark where the magnets will go.  I came in 2″ on either end.  I only marked one side of each pair of mouldings and I’ll tell you why later.  Drill part of the way through the wood.

A drill stop will prevent you from drilling all the way through the wood.

A drill stop will prevent you from drilling all the way through the wood.

I have a set of drill stops that came with my doweling kit, but you can buy them separately, too.  This is important so you don’t drill all the way through.  If you don’t have a drill stop and don’t want to buy one, just be very careful.  You will be very sad if you drill through to the other side.  You may need a tissue.

Dowel center transfer plug in action.

Dowel center transfer plug in action.

Also with my doweling kit came this handy little tool for marking the place of holes that need to be matched precisely.  It’s called a dowel center transfer plug.  You just stick it in the hole you drilled and press the pointy end into the other piece of wood.  Make sure the edges are all square, flush, and plumb before you do that.  Now you know exactly where to drill on the other side.  Alternatively, you could just measure really carefully.

Cut your string or twine long enough so you get a pleasing isosceles triangle when you place the ends in your drilled holes.  Tie knots in both ends.

The final rigging

The final rigging

Fill the drilled holes with glue and put the ends of the string in, followed by your magnets.  BE SO CAREFUL WITH THESE MAGNETS.  If you have children or pets and they swallow two of these, the attraction is so powerful that they will tear through your child’s/pet’s insides.  Let’s not have that, shall we?  I keep these hidden well out of reach.  Also, when you place the magnets, remember there’s a positive and negative side and opposites attract.  You need the poles facing the same direction in the sandwich.  After placing the magnets in the holes, I glued a little scrap of paper over them, then I put the sides of the hangers together with plastic wrap in between to dry overnight.  I did that because I wanted to make sure that as the glue dried, the magnets were flush with the surface of the wood.

Et voila!  If you are interested in purchasing either my hipster cow or Psych pancakes poster, check out my Etsy shop.

Completed hanger holding up my Psych inspired poster of pancakes.

Completed hanger holding up my Psych inspired poster of pancakes.

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